The Natural Park “Cabo
de Gata-Nijar”
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
EXTENSION: 38.000 ha (earth’s surface) 12.000 Ha (sea’s
surface)
CLIMATE: Subtropical Mediterranean Subdessert.
LOCATION: Southwest of Spain, in the province of Almeria.How
to get it: Mediterranean Highway. Take one of the following
exits: Campohermoso (nº487) Níjar (nº481)
San Isidro(479) San Jose(471) Cabo de Gata (467)
REFERENCE PLACES: Rodalquilar, S. José (800 citizens.)
and S.Migue de Cabo de Gata(1.200 citizens.). 3000 citizens
all over the Park..
The Park has more than 38.000 ha earth’s surface and
12.000 sea’s surface and is a protected Natural Space
because it has been declared Biosphere Reserve by Unesco,
it is one of the last Mediterranean paradises. Cabo de Gata
is an incomparable place to live in or spend your holidays:
its volcano characteristics, its special climate with more
than 3000 sun hours, its marvellous beaches.
In Cabo de Gata the history is combined with legends: defensive
castles, small churches and chapels, fishers villages, deserted
beaches, virgin coves… and the infinite silent of the
pure nature. Everything helps to recover energy and health,
far away from the contamination and stressful of the cities…
You will love, live and enjoy the nature… From the trekking
through inaccessible paths to ideal places to horse riding
and mountain biking. You will discover a sea ideal for canoeing,
windsurfing, sailing,,, and a fantastic deep sea for submarinism,
diving without oxygen tank and submarine photography. A perfectly
preserved nature, rich in flora and fauna… in unforgettable
landscapes.
In Cabo de Gata it is summer the whole year, soft Autumn and
Winter, with warm sea and changing landscape: green, ochre-colored…
and green again. Hot Spring full of flowers and animals…
And Summer refreshed by the sea breeze. The natural Park “Cabo
de Gata-Nijar” is a paradise the whole year.
It is 15 Km. from the E-15 Mediterranean Highway (exits 467,
471, 479 y 487 ), You will be in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla
or even Europe… in a few hours. It was declared Maritime-Terrestrial
Natural Park “Cabo de Gata” by the Andalusian
Government in 1987. This legal protection has involved the
Park preservation from the urban speculation and the ambient
degradation.
The strong personality
of this natural place is produced by its volcano origin, the
extreme climate conditions of temperature and dryness, and
the erosion determine a wide variety of mineral resources,
flora and fauna. Everything, joined to the landscape contrasts
and the traditional relation between man and nature (artisan
fishing, salt marshes…) become the Natural Park “Cabo
the Gata-Nijar, an unique place for the tourist and for those
who love the nature.
Although from a scientific point of view we
can distinguish two different ecosystems: The Sierra Semiarida
and the Charcones salinos, from the visitor’s point
of view there are also one more ecosystem conformed by the
coves, beaches and the preserved marine mile (the seaside).
We would like to underline each ecosystem’s
characteristics:
a) The mountain, in Spring it reachs its maximum
magnificence however, we are always amazed by its unsuspicious
beautiful corners: volcano cones, lava… The palm heart,
the antirrhinum, the cornicabra, the esparto… the real
owl, the part ridged eagle, lizard, the hedgehod…
b) The Salt marshes: Unforgettable spectacle
in Spring and Summer when hundreds of storks, avocets and
The Pink Flemish arrive slowly at the Salt Marshes. Because
of the good climate, Many birds spend the whole winter in
these lands between the Salt mountains and the charcones.
c) The Seaside: wild beaches and uncountable
lost coves separated by enormous volcano rocks which conform
picturesque cliffs. And the transparent and hot sea flied
through by laughing seagulls, the charranes, the cormorant
mo;udo, the Eleonor falcon and the Audouin seagull. You will
sea the dolphins jumping and the caves prepared by monk seal.
But we must also speak about the people:
their habits and traditions. A rich history full of fightings
against the nature and with an amazing way of living.
The Gold Mines of Rodalquilar are described by Juan Goyti-solo
in his book “Campos de Nijar”:
: "La carretera se desboca cuesta
abajo. Es una pista ancha, por donde tres camiones pueden
pasar cómodamente sin rozarse. El viajero tiene la
impresión de recorrer una zona desértica, como
las que se ven en las películas de vaqueros del oeste
americano. En la linde del camino alguien ha escrito sobre
una peña: A HOLIVUD DOS QUILOMETROS. Un camión
sube a buena marcha levantando nubes de polvo.El silencio
es agobiante. Contemplo las sierras pardas, desnudas. Aquí
y allá unas bocas amarillentas señalan las bocas
de las minas. En el valle hay casuchas en ruinas y un deposito
circular abandonado.La carretera se ciñe al borde del
barranco y, a la vuelta de una curva, se asoma sobre los lavaderos
de la empresa,elpueblo de Rodalquilar. Escalonados en la pendiente
de la montaña varios depósitos brillan al sol,
intensamente rojos".
There are many itineraries and routes in the NP “Cabo
de Gata-Nijar”, but here we offer you one example extracted
from the guide” one week in the Natural Park Cabo de
Gata-Nijar published by our company Naturalmeria 99 SL.
ITINERARY 4 (THURSDAY)
LA ISLETA del MORO
RODALQUILAR
LAS NEGRAS
LAS HORTICHUELAS
LOS ESCULLOS
TECHNICAL RECORD
TYPE:
by bicycle (middle difficulty)
On foot (high difficulty)
You can also go by car but it is less interesting.
DURATION: 28 KM..
REFERENCES:
Isleta del Moro, Barranco del Negro, Mirador de la Amatista,
Rodalquilar, Torre de los Lobos (Punta de la Polacra), El
Playazo, Las Negras, Las Hortichuelas.
EQUIPMENT:
Photographic camera, binoculars, note book, sun cream and
suitable clothes.
SOME PIECES OF ADVICES:
If you go on foot you must work out the effort, provisions,
except water bottles, are not necessary because there will
always be small near villages.
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS:
We are in the heart of the Natural Park, so You will be able
to see the most typical aspects.
HISTORY:
The natural beauty of this lands has not been transformed
during the course of the years: gold extraction in Rodalquilar,
artisan fishing in the Isleta, castles in the Playazoo
WHAT TO VISIT:
Marvellous views ((Cortijo La Palma, Amatista viewpoint, Torre
de los Lobos) and interesting man’s adaptation to the
environment: fishing coats, architecture….
WHERE TO EAT
Both in the Isleta and in the Negras, You can taste delicious
fish. In Rodalquilar You will also find the best restaurants
and taverns in the NP.
ITINERARY DESCRIPTION:
We set off in the Escullos, direction Isleta del Moro. On
the left, You can admire the external walls of a volcanic
crater, which were used by the Arabians in order to take advantage
of the land. 3 Km after, we arrive at a little oasis where
the typical fishers’ village has been built: The Isleta
del Moro. It is very typical to see the boats and nets along
the streets in order to get dry. We recommend you walking
until the boats and afterwards visiting the Pe;on Blanco beach.
We continue our trip walking between palm trees until the
road to Rodalquilar, in the Cortijo de la Palma; we will enjoy
a fantastic view of the volcanic rock which gives the name
of the Isleta. Now or in the return if you prefer, we can
go down until the cave of the Barranco del Negro (cave of
Los Toros or Los Piratas) with its characteristic pine forest.
We go uphill until the Amatista point view, famous because
of the presence of this semi precious stone (obligatory photo).
Once on the top of the mountain we can appreciate the Rodalquilar
valley with its characteristic gold mines, which were working
until the 60’s and which left traces of its splendorous
past (mining village, Casino, church…). Afterwards we
go to the Torre de los Lobos, although going up is hard enough,
You cannot miss the marvellous view from the top of it. Going
downhill on the left, suddenly a path appears and leads us
to the Cala del Carnaje (cave). Another path appears lower
on the right (flattered by olive trees and pines) and lead
us to the Playazo de Rodalquilar (beach) in the walking you
will enjoy old country houses, lands and wells. In the Playazo
You will admire the ruins of defendant castles – Alumbres
and San Ramon Castles- which remind us the Turkish’s’
incursions. This beach is one of the most beautiful in the
Park, because of its natural swimming pools. If we go on foot,
we can continue bordering the seaside through a path until
Las Negras, enjoying the funny Cala del Cuervo (cave) in the
route. We will also arrive there through the road, In the
Negras the old and typical fishers’ village is mixed
with the tourist and modern urbanization. Its beach is composed
by volcanic rocks and black sand, the beach together with
the Cerro Negro create an special flavour in the village.
The Rambla of the Negras flows into this beach; it is beautiful
peculiar and provides permanent water to the Park. In this
place you can hire per about 6 €, a return trip by ship
until the famous cave of San Pedro( Bar La Palma). You can
also go by foot (2hours). In this nudist cave You will find
a beautiful castle and a Sweetwater fountain that is the reason
why many people remain in this place for several days. However
we recommend this option in another itinerary which starts
in The Negras.
We come back following the road in order to visit the Hotichuelas’
district, where you can admire the local typical architecture
which comes from the Arabians one, with white houses, round
shapes, plain roofs for recollecting water, robust walls with
buttresses and small windows for keeping he houses fresh.
Each house has a little yard to cultive olive trees, almond
trees…
We continue direction Rodalquilar, where we
recommend resting in the peaceful Plaza Nueva or in any cosy
and little bar. This is the perfect moment to visit the mining
facilities. We can also visit the Cortijo del Fraile (where
the play of Garcia Lorca “Bodas de Sangre” took
place). :
Sagrada Virgen del Mar,
Madre de los afligidos,
Dame tu divina gracia,
De corazón te lo pido,
Para poder relatar
El crimen más vengativo
Que ha visto la Humanidad.
En la provincia de Almería
Por toda España nombrada
Hay un pueblo de importancia
El cual Níjar es llamado.
En el Cortijo del Fraile
Vive Francisco Cañadas
Querido por todo el campo
Por ser una familia honrada.
Este sigue su labor
En este cortijo hermoso
Por no tener más que hijas
Siempre tiene muchos mozos..."
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